A Mild Winter's Bitter Revenge

FIFA worked with the host country to set up 10 fan parks around the country for soccer fans seeking stadium-style atmosphere for each and every game. Admission is free, food and drink vendors are scattered across a vast lawn, and the games are broadcast on a gigantic screen. Emcees keep the crowds engaged between halves and between games, sparing the viewers from an otherwise aimless broadcasting team with way (read: waaaayyyy) too much downtime between matches.

Today we chose to watch the first game from the famed "group of death" between Ivory Coast and Portugal. We expected large crowds. After enjoying a stroll through the Sandton City Mall, we trekked through Jo'burg's financial district to set up at the fan park. While the skies remained clear and blue, the temperature dipped into the low 50s. With the near-freezing wind chill, which often sliced through our jeans, the day started to feel like a battle of wills. Until now, winter in South Africa had been closer to October in Sacramento.


The large crowds we hoped to find must have read the weather report.
The soccer supporter scarf is normally a trendy addition to one's outfit. Today it was a lifesaver.

We sampled some of the food options today, which gives me a chance to discuss some of the fare we're finding in Jo'burg. For the most part, the options are similar to what we're used in the states, with some subtle tweaks. Thin, naturally rising breads and doughs are used for sandwiches and pizzas. We find panini-style concoctions, but they're not called paninis. Unfamiliar hard cheeses are put in salads and certain plates. Much of the vegetable options look familiar but go by different names (they offer a variety of strange peppers, it seems). The ketchup and pasta sauces are sweeter, and Ben reports the mustard is nearly neon. He also does not endorse the South African Lay's potato chips. Brewed coffee seems a specialty item; much of what I've had comes from a powder.

Yesterday, Stephanie and Ben ordered fantastic smoothies at a quaint restaurant in the zoo that contained familiar fruits but in different combination. Stephanie had apple mint passion fruit, for example, and Ben had something called Gummiberry. I went out on the farthest limb today, ordering mutton curry from a woman at the fan park. The food seems modern, even European (chips instead of fries, cafe con leche instead of regular joe). Overall, however, I must admit we're not eating terribly risky, but loving nearly every minute of what we find.

We have now returned to our hotel to watch Brazil take on North Korea in a much warmer environment. We were once again transported by Arrive Alive, this time by Collen. On the way out of the mall parking lot in the dark, Ben told Collen that his "lights" were off. Collen didn't seem to register this. When we approached a stoplight, another driver pulled up next to Collen, honked, and made a flashing-light gesture with her hands. Ben again told Collen that his lights were out when he didn't seem to understand what was being communicated. Collen said, "What about them?" and proceeded to punch the hazard lights, then turn off the interior lights somehow. Ben finally said "headlight" and Collen got it, gesturing and smiling enthusiastically at the other driver for helping him out. We arrived home alive.

By the way, if you'll remember from yesterday's post, Ben was dispossessed a bed. Well, either the staff is reading the blog, or they have a sense of humor. When we returned home tonight, this is what we found: